Understanding Climbing and Bouldering Grading Systems Explained

Climbing and bouldering are dynamic, challenging sports that test your physical endurance, mental toughness, and technical skill. Whether you’re tackling a towering rock face or deciphering complex boulder problems, understanding the grading system is essential. The grading system in both climbing and bouldering indicates the difficulty level of routes, helping climbers gauge whether a particular climb aligns with their skills.

In this detailed guide, we’ll explore the most common rating systems used in climbing and bouldering across the globe. Whether you’re new to the sport or a seasoned climber looking to expand your knowledge, this post will clarify how these grading systems work, what the numbers and letters mean, and how you can apply them to enhance your climbing experience.

Why Climbing and Bouldering Grades Are Important

Grading systems are more than just technical jargon—they serve as a roadmap for progression and safety. Here are a few reasons why grades matter:

• Track Your Progress: Grades let you measure your growth. Whether you’re aiming to conquer a V4 boulder or a 5.12 sport climb, understanding the difficulty can help you recognize improvements over time.
• Set Attainable Goals: Each grade level represents a new challenge. Climbing within your grade range allows you to push your limits without overreaching.
• Stay Safe: Knowing your limits helps prevent injury. Attempting climbs outside your skill range can lead to accidents, especially when proper techniques aren’t applied.
• Navigate New Destinations: If you’re traveling to a climbing hotspot, understanding the local grading system helps you pick appropriate routes for your skill level.

Let’s delve into the grading systems used in climbing and bouldering worldwide.

Climbing Grading Systems

1. Yosemite Decimal System (YDS)

The Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) is the most widely used grading scale for technical climbing in the U.S. Originally created for hikes and scrambles, YDS has evolved to categorize climbing difficulty from beginner to expert levels. It consists of five classes, but Class 5 is reserved for technical rock climbing, which requires protection.

• Class 1: Simple walking on flat terrain.
• Class 2: Easy scrambling over uneven surfaces.
• Class 3: Scrambling that requires occasional hand use.
• Class 4: Steep, exposed scrambling with the possibility of serious injury if a fall occurs.
• Class 5: Full technical rock climbing, where the use of protection (ropes and gear) is essential.

Within Class 5, the system is broken down into sub-grades to indicate increasing difficulty:

• 5.0 to 5.4: Easy climbing, often with large holds.
• 5.5 to 5.9: Intermediate climbs that require basic climbing techniques.
• 5.10 to 5.15: Advanced and elite climbs, often featuring small holds, steep overhangs, and technical sequences.

Each grade between 5.10 and 5.15 is further divided into sub-grades, such as 5.10a, 5.10b, and so on, with “a” being the easiest and “d” the hardest.

Pros: Straightforward and widely adopted in the U.S.
Cons: Subject to variations based on location, as grading can be more lenient or strict depending on local standards.

2. French Grading System

The French system is widely used for sport climbing in Europe. It offers a single number and letter combination to summarize the overall difficulty of a route. The scale starts at 5a and goes up to 9b+ for the hardest routes in the world.

• 5a-6a: Suitable for beginners and intermediate climbers.
• 6b-7b: Advanced routes requiring a higher degree of endurance, technique, and strength.
• 7c-9b+: Elite-level routes that only the top climbers in the world can complete.

Unlike the YDS, the French system doesn’t separate the difficulty of individual moves from the overall endurance required.

Pros: Simple and effective for sport climbing, widely used in Europe.
Cons: Lacks specificity for certain climbing styles or endurance levels.

3. UIAA Grading System

The UIAA grading system, developed by the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation, is predominantly used in Germany, Austria, Switzerland, and other parts of Europe. It measures difficulty from I (easiest) to XI (most difficult), with the scale continuously expanding as new, harder routes are established.

• UIAA I-III: Beginner-friendly routes.
• UIAA IV-VI: Intermediate climbs with a mix of technical and physical challenges.
• UIAA VII-XI: Advanced to elite-level climbs, often pushing the limits of what’s possible.

The UIAA system is often used for alpine and multi-pitch routes, where factors like route length and exposure are just as important as the difficulty of individual moves.

Pros: Great for mountaineering and alpine climbs.
Cons: Can be difficult for beginners to interpret, and comparisons to other grading systems aren’t always clear.

4. Ewbank System (Australia)

In Australia and South Africa, the Ewbank system is the primary grading scale. It assigns a single number to a route’s difficulty, with higher numbers representing harder climbs. The scale begins at 1 and currently extends beyond 40.

• 1-10: Simple scrambling and beginner-level climbs.
• 11-20: Intermediate climbing, requiring some technical skills.
• 21-40+: Advanced to elite routes that test strength, technique, and mental resilience.

Unlike YDS and French grading, the Ewbank system does not use letters or additional symbols to further distinguish difficulty levels.

Pros: Simplicity—just one number.
Cons: Lacks the nuance of other grading systems.

Bouldering Grading Systems

Bouldering, the practice of climbing short, intense problems without ropes, uses simpler grading systems. The two most widely used bouldering rating systems are the V Scale and the Font Scale.

1. V Scale (Hueco Scale)

The V Scale is the most common system in the U.S., originating from Hueco Tanks in Texas. It assigns V0 to the easiest problems and V17+ to the hardest, though some gyms also use VB to denote “beginner” problems easier than V0.

• V0-V2: Suitable for beginners, featuring large holds and simple sequences.
• V3-V5: Intermediate-level problems that demand better technique and power.
• V6-V8: Advanced problems with difficult moves and high physical demands.
• V9+: Elite problems that require exceptional strength, technique, and mental focus.

Pros: Familiar and simple to understand.
Cons: Doesn’t distinguish between different climbing styles (e.g., slabs vs. overhangs).

2. Font Scale (Fontainebleau)

The Font Scale was developed in Fontainebleau, France, one of the world’s most famous bouldering areas. This scale runs from 3 to 9a and uses subdivisions like a, b, and c to further indicate difficulty.

• 3-5a: Ideal for beginners.
• 5b-6a: Intermediate problems requiring solid footwork and technique.
• 6b-7a: Advanced problems with more complex sequences.
• 7b-9a: Elite-level bouldering challenges.

The Font Scale is more granular than the V Scale, especially at higher difficulty levels, providing better distinctions between problems that are just slightly harder than others.

Pros: More detailed than the V Scale.
Cons: Can be tricky to interpret, particularly for those unfamiliar with the system.

How Do These Systems Compare?

Climbing and bouldering rating systems can be confusing, especially if you’re switching between them. Here’s a rough comparison:

Notable Climbing Grades

What is 9A+ in Climbing?

In the French system, 9A+ refers to an incredibly difficult sport climbing grade, typically attempted by elite climbers. Routes at this level require unparalleled strength, technique, and endurance. A famous example is La Dura Dura in Spain, which has been climbed by Adam Ondra and Chris Sharma.

What is the Highest V Grade?

As of today, the highest confirmed bouldering grade is V17 (equivalent to 9A on the Font Scale). Some of the most challenging V17 boulder problems include “Burden of Dreams” in Finland, climbed by Nalle Hukkataival, and “Return of the Sleepwalker” in Red Rocks, Nevada, sent by Daniel Woods.

Tips for Navigating Grades

• Stay Humble: Grades can vary significantly by region. A 5.10d in one area might feel easier or harder elsewhere due to local grading tendencies.
• Play to Your Strengths: Bouldering focuses on short, explosive moves, while sport climbing often emphasizes endurance. Understand your strengths and choose routes accordingly.
• Log Your Progress: Keeping a journal of your climbs, along with their grades, is a great way to track improvement and set future goals.

Conclusion

Understanding climbing and bouldering rating systems is key to enjoying these sports safely and effectively. While grades can help you set goals and measure progress, remember that they aren’t the only markers of success. Climbing is ultimately about enjoying the process, overcoming personal challenges, and appreciating the great outdoors.

So, grab your gear, find your next project, and get ready to climb to new heights!

Happy climbing!